Muscatine Kosovo Project 2008

Reflections from Diana Baker

2008-08-18T14:30:00.000-05:00

When asked how my trip to Kosovo was, the words I always say are “amazing’ or “perfect” but that never actually begins to cover it. There are so many emotions and feelings when I think of Kosovo and our time there. Like the time when my roommate, Marina and I had to switch homes and we didn’t want to go because we loved Lum’s family, but we knew we had the chance to be with another family and bond with them. Or the time when Tom, Marina, and I sat together on the flight to Vienna and Tom went into our faces at 4 in the morning and said, “I’m bored.” Or the time when all the kids walked up the hill just to be together. The times when we all leaned on each other because we were sick, tired, sad, bored, or just plain cranky. Or the times when we were just having fun and forgot we were in a different country, away from our family, friends, and things that are familiar to us and we could just let it all go. That’s the real Kosovo and the one that I love for the people, the food, the culture, the friends and the way you look at things.

The people of Kosovo taught me many things but the most important are the things that I will always say and hopefully never change are that: “The impossible is merely possibly possible,” and, “Just because you have nothing doesn’t mean you have nothing.”

That’s Kosovo, or at least my Kosovo.

Reflections from Taylor Wettech

2008-08-18T14:18:00.000-05:00

I couldn't wait to return to Kosovo. In many ways, I felt I'd been preparing for it ever since the 2005 trip. Prior to that trip I had been apathetic and unsure what I was getting myself into, only to be blown out of the water by the positivity and strength of the Kosovar people. On a trip that was meant to affect change for Kosovo, I felt like they truly had given me more than I ever gave to them. My experience in Kosovo began my goal of doing humanitarian work on a global scale as a career. And so this time around I planned to give my all.

Did I accomplish my goal? I like to think I did. Did I accomplish it in the way I expected to? Not in the least. I helped teach music, a far cry from saving lives or providing food. And I think my first thought was that, because I wasn't having a tangible impact, that my impact was nil. Think again, Taylor! As Kosovo rises from the ashes, it will need less and less monetary and medical aid. But all people, whether they are rich or poor, whether are from a stable or unstable background, living in America or abroad, can gain from teaching and friendship. After all, it was the teaching and friendship of my Kosovar brothers and sisters that inspired me to return to Kosovo.

Reflections from Jon Fasanelli-Cawelti

2008-08-18T14:08:00.001-05:00

In a place where the classroom was a dirt patch near the ruins of war, at an isolated refugee camp, a child drew a picture of a bicycle. It was full of color and motion but also joy and life. Then he gave it away. Those two acts, creating and giving, offer hope that one can create in a sorry place. At this place the kids put their paper on the ground or knees, some lay on their bellies – who hasn’t done this as a kid?

Drawing is a human experience. I’ve almost never found a child who wouldn’t draw. At Slovene Village Kristin found a child who couldn’t hold a crayon. Was he deprived or physically or mentally challenged? Who knows, but his environment was utterly bleak and neglected.

I try to draw these kids who are drawing whatever they want, holding it tight to my little sketchbook as curious and grasping hands try to clutch it to see what I did while they sang or played ball or just hung out. Invariably they are excited to see themselves or their siblings or pals on paper no matter how spare my gestural efforts are.

There is just a little time, I must work fast, they won’t hold still and it is better that way. I like the line, their aquiline features surrounded by sharp peaks and valleys. From the many portraits here to the copper plate I will go looking for the sounds I saw that so many other people made.

Thanks for the chance.

Reflection Photos from Aimee Wedeking

2008-08-12T10:42:00.007-05:00

Reflection Photos from Jo Drahos

2008-08-12T10:40:00.002-05:00

Concert Music Now Online

2008-08-10T16:32:00.000-05:00

I have uploaded a number of mp3 music files featuring the Muscatine Youth and Children's Choir and students and volunteers from the Shropshire Music Foundation's Kosovo Children's Music Initiative. All were recorded in July 2008 at Yll Morina School, Gjakove, Kosovo or at Camp Bondsteel, Kosovo.

Also online are the four radio reports I sent to KWPC Muscatine during our trip to Kosovo

Double clicking or right clicking on any of the above files should give you the option to open the file OR save the file to your own computer/iPod/mp3 player. Please let me know if you have trouble with any of the files.

--Keith Porter

Amazing Kosovo - Reflections from Tamara Morgan

2008-08-08T09:46:00.000-05:00

Since being back in the states, I have had several people ask how my trip was. Every time I respond with one word “amazing”. What an experience to have been able to participate in. I saw and experienced a lot of wonderful things while there. Most were happy, fun, and educational, although there were a few sad moments. There is one event, however, I will keep with me forever, and that is the last day at Slovene village. What a day! At first we thought we would be rained out, but God was working in our favor and we were able to spend one more day with the children. I will never forget the pure joy on their faces as we played that last rousing game of baseball. Their smiles and laughter touched my heart. It was a wonderful gift from God to experience the entire trip and I am very thankful to have been part of the effort.

Reflections and Photos from Anne Olson

2008-08-07T19:54:00.004-05:00

On first impression, many things have changed in Kosovo since 2005. Independence from Serbia was declared in February of this year. People are dressed more fashionably. Many youth have cell phones and email. European automobiles are seen more often now, and car washes are available. Not everyone has access, though, and many horse-drawn carts and other motor conveyances are still used. Farmers still walk their milk cows to the pasture and home again daily - tramping down the street or on sidewalks. Few war-damaged homes remain; much building is taking place. Many new restaurants and shops are open. While driving in the country, I notice irrigation rigs in use, something not seen 3 years ago.

Second impressions show that many things have not changed. The governing bodies are not strong at this time. Infrastructure of the country is weak...for instance; there still is no mail service. Obituaries are still fastened to telephone poles, leading me to believe that newspapers either are not available or regular. Garbage is still burned and the streets are filled with trash. The home I lived in 3 years ago was on a stretch of street heavily damaged during the war. It still shows no signs of repair; heavily potholed and with no sewer grates or street lights, making for treacherous foot travel at night. Also, vehicles driving down this street must weave back and forth around the bumps and potholes.

The most noticeable difference this trip is that the unbearable heat of 2005 is now cooler temperatures and rainy weather much of the time. Many of us are unprepared for long pants and long-sleeved shirts. We actually crave a blanket at night!

Reflection Photos from Ric Smith

2008-08-07T19:45:00.008-05:00

Reflections from Karen Morgan

2008-08-07T19:44:00.001-05:00

It was good to go back to Kosovo. Some things have improved and one was pretty bad. I saw a lot more of the city this time as we walked the streets quite a bit since our rental was quite small. That was fine with me, though, as you get a new perspective by getting around more. Even seeing the hospital was beneficial. By watching and listening, I think maybe we have created some problems within Liz's program by trying to make things better for the Kosovo kids. I think we have a great program and am always ready to go help.

These Are A Few of Our Favorite Things

2008-08-04T19:18:00.003-05:00

Every member of the American group was asked to write down their three favorite things about the Kosovo trip. Below is the list, as compiled by Tamara Morgan, from written responses given during the plane ride from Vienna to Chicago. Special thanks to Karen Hartman and Tamara Morgan for making sure everyone provided input! Here's the list:

Places visited & scenery (Museums,Rugove Canyon,Peja,Prizren)
The Singing/Concerts (esp. Bondsteel & Church Service)
Friendships (new & old)
Teaching the children/working in schools
Time with Kosovar families (Dessert & Lunches)
Restaurants/food/Ice cream (OITA)
Family Stays/free time with the Kosovo friends
Slovene Village
Helping other people/being selfless
Bondsteel
Meeting new people
Joy of all people involved/Working as a team (camaraderie)
Mild weather & temps
Hospitality of Kosovars
All the (new) experiences
Roommates
Hospital House
Getting to know the American people on the trip
Getting to know Kosovar kids/Interaction
Free time in afternoons
Farewell party at River/Baseball game
American adult group meals together
Working around language barrier
Walking around the city
Swimming
Support/caring/friendship from the people in our group
Staying out late at night
Shopping
Seeing first hand the confidence SMF brings the kids
Rotary Meeting/Performance
Realizing there is still good in this world
Patience of all the kids
Participating in Saturday Mass at Catholic Church
Music is Love & Peace
Hadji
Growth of youth/evolvement of relationships
Freedom & Safety
Felling of Home away from Home
Eye & Medical Exams
Cultural learnings & experimentations
Activities with Kosovars
10 million things to do
1 Person in charge at Airports to facilitate security/Passport/boarding
"Old European" feel of country

Our Final Full Day in Kosovo

2008-08-01T13:32:00.002-05:00

Monday (July 28) was our final full day in Kosovo and so we are spending the day celebrating with our Kosovar friends and their families.

This afternoon we gathered at a restaurant-hotel complex about 30 minutes outside Gjakove for a final “goodbye” celebration. All of our youth and many of the Kosovar choir youth are also spending the night at Liz’s house.

It was a wonderful afternoon. A brief downpour just as we arrived at the restaurant threatened to put a damper on the planned celebration. But within minutes the sun came out and the temperature was almost perfect…not too hot…not too cold.

After a feast of fish, salad, fries, pizza, and several plates of local favorites, many of our youth and adults spent the afternoon playing baseball, volleyball, soccer, and Frisbee. Others walked the grounds, shared ice cream sundaes, and took as many photos of their friends as possible. It was all fabulous…and very filling. I had hopes of losing weight on this trip but given all of the food we’ve been presented I doubt anyone lost weight (and a few probably gained!).

It was a perfect way to end a truly spectacular trip.

The Long Trip Home
As I packed the final items into my suitcase I found it hard to zip close; partially because it is full of souvenirs and gifts I’ve received and partially because I didn’t want to believe our trip was coming to an end.

In our short time here, our group has managed to accomplish more than I think any of us thought was possible. Dr. Peter Korpi examined hundreds of sets of eyes with help from Rayellen Phillips; Mike Hartman, Jo Drahos, and Carolyn Hines provided health checks to just as many, and the various art, English and craft classes led by Jon Fasanelli-Calwalti, Aimee Wedeking, Karen Hartman, Tamara Morgan, Karen Morgan, Anne Olson, Dan Gray, and Margie Gray brought joy to young and old alike. Keith Porter kept us all in line and Paul Kakert video nearly every minute of our experiences on tape.

Our youth also deserve a great deal of credit for assisting, and sometimes leading, classes. Michaela and Marina Calzaretta; Hanna, Tom, and Joe Porter; Halie and Abbie Gray; Kelli Hinrichs; Taylor Wettech; Sam and Diana Baker; Madeline, Allison, Gabrielle, and Isabelle Hartman; Nick Korpi; Leigha Phillps; Rachel Potter; and Jake Drahos.

More importantly, our youth were able to reunite with old friends and meet new ones. And under the leadership of Ric Smith, Lori Carroll and Liz Shropshire our youth and the Kosovar choir sang and performed more beautifully than ever.

On behalf of the entire Muscatine Kosovo Project, I’d like to thank the Muscatine Journal, KWPC, and every individual and business that helped make our 2008 trip to Kosovo one that we will never forget

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Goodbye Picnic Photos - July 28

2008-08-01T13:15:00.012-05:00

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Mission: Camp Bondsteel

2008-08-01T13:12:00.002-05:00

Nestled among the rolling hills one hour south of Pristina is Camp Bondsteel. This sprawling base is home to the Multinational Brigade (East) of Operation Joint Guardian; the NATO peacekeeping operation in Kosovo. It is also the base for the thousands of American troops contributing to keeping the peace in this troubled region.

On Sunday we packed 33 Americans (including Liz Shropshire, head of the Shropshire Music Foundation, our partner group in Kosovo) and a dozen of Liz’s advanced Gjakove volunteers into one van and a large bus and headed to Camp Bondsteel. Our mission was to extend our thanks for their efforts. The trip was made possible only after a series of e-mail exchanges initiated by Keith Porter.

We were told to arrive by 11:00 a.m. We arrived 30 minutes early (the first advance or on-time arrival in our 14 days here!). Unbeknownst to us, Bondsteel had pushed the schedule back for our arrival to 11:45 a.m. In the end, the early arrival gave our combined choirs a chance to determine a set list and which instruments were going to be used in the concert.

When we finally lined up for security at 11:45 a.m., it took more than 30 minutes for the entire group to clear security. This is partially due to the size of our group and the fact that Bondsteel doesn’t have X-ray machines and every bag had to be hand inspected. We were only allowed to bring three cameras for the entire group; two still cameras and our videographer’s camera.

Once we cleared security we were given visitors badges and introduced to our chaplain host, Major Darren King, and his assistant, Sergeant First Class Michael Busby. We were further divided into small groups of four or five and introduced to soldiers who were assigned to escort us at all times. Every one of the soldiers was armed, and each had volunteered on their day off to escort our participants.

Our tour of Camp Bondsteel began with a full buffet meal in one of the base’s two dining halls. It felt like home for our American participants. Baseball highlights were being broadcast on a large screen in one end of the dining hall. The huge spread of food was a true treat for our Kosovar youth.

After a delicious lunch we boarded air conditioned busses (complete with a number of armed escorts), taken to a monument near Bondsteel’s chapel, given a tour of the base, and then taken to Audie Murphy Medal of Honor Hall where the combined choirs performed.

Song and Praise
Soon, soldiers, still in full fatigues carrying their assigned weapons, started to fill the seats. Commanding General Larry Kay of the Missouri National Guard even slipped into the row behind me.

The choirs sounded truly angelic. They performed better than I’ve ever seen them perform. The final song of the performance was “Ani Mori Nuse”, a traditional Albanian folk song with a modern twist. In the middle of the song, our Kosovar performers jumped from the stage and started a traditional chain dance. Before I could react with my camera nearly everyone in the hall, including General Kay, were on their feet and had joined the dance line as it snaked through the rows of seats.

Visibly moved, Commanding General Kay presented Ric Smith and Liz Shropshire a plaque of appreciation. He also presented special medals to what he called, “the four standout performers.” They were Perparim Lloqanaj and Michaela Calzaretta for their solo performances and Zana Vejsa and Vigan Shehu for their guitar performances.

In a conversation with Keith Porter after the performance Commanding General Kay said the performance was wonderful. “It lets us know that we are not forgotten but it also lets us know there is a lot going on out there that is very, very positive.” He added, “To see something that originates from Muscatine, Iowa, just up the street from us (in Missouri), it just astounding.”

Another mission accomplished.

Until next time....Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Camp Bondsteel Photos - July 27

2008-08-01T12:45:00.017-05:00

Here are photos taken during the visit to Camp Bondsteel. Only three cameras were allowed for our entire group (mine, Anne's, and Paul's video camera). Our ability to take photos in multiple locations was also restricted due to security reasons.

These photos are from my camera (and in no particular order). Lighting was also not the best, so apologies for any red-eye I may have missed in my quick edits.

Group Photos at the Chapel Peacekeepers Monument

Base Tour

Rehearsal and Concert

The "Corn Cobbs"

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

The "Bondsteel Dance"

2008-08-01T12:39:00.003-05:00

Video of the now infamous "Bondsteel Dance," as taken with my digital camera and edited for time.

Peje and Rugove Photos - July 26

2008-08-01T12:02:00.014-05:00

Members of the Muscatine and Kosovo groups headed to Peje and Rugove Canyon on July 26. Our first stop was the Peje Market (I did not take many photos...too crowded for my tastes). We spent the afternoon on a nice farm in Rugove Canyon.

Here are photos from the trip (in no particular order).

Peje

Rugove Canyon

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Novosell Pre-Concert Photos - July 25

2008-08-01T11:46:00.007-05:00

The joint choirs performed at the Novosell School on July 25 (see previous posts for more info). Part of the group arrived before the school gate was open. Here are photos from the wait and the concert set-up (in no particular order).

I had a surprise visitor for the concert. Hadji's mother begged Burim to bring him along to the show so Hadji could see me one last time.

Here is a great photo Hadji took of Aimee with my camera. I think he has a future in photography, don't you?

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Novosell School Photos - July 23

2008-08-01T11:37:00.005-05:00

Here are photos from the art / tie-dye class at Novosell School on July 23 (in no particular order).

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Final Slovene Village Visit Photos - July 24

2008-08-01T11:12:00.015-05:00

Part of the group made one final visit to Slovene Village on July 24 to play games, sing songs, and finish up health clinics. We concluded the trip by passing out highlighters (courtesy of the Hartman family) and a variety of beanies (courtesy of the Hartman family and Amy, Emily, and Ari Bakke).

Here are some photos from the visit (in no particular order).

-----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

My Last Day with Hadji

2008-07-29T12:31:00.000-05:00

Here are photos from my last day with Hadji (July 25). See my earlier posts for complete details on the day.

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Novosell School Concert Photos- July 25

2008-07-28T04:20:00.007-05:00

A lack of power and some unruly neighborhood teens did not stop the Muscatine and Kosovar choirs from singing their hearts out at the Novosell School on Friday, July 25. Here are some photos. Apologies in advance for any red-eye; etc. Toward the end of the concert, there was very little light in the cramped hallway we transformed into an "auditorium." Ironically, the power came back on just as the choirs finished their last song. Such is life in Kosovo.

----Keith Porter

Yll Marina Concert Videos

2008-07-28T00:36:00.009-05:00

Here are a few songs from the Yll Marina concert that I recorded on my digital camera. "We Sing for the Children"

"Ding Dong"

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

My Little Boy Is Growing Up Fast

2008-07-27T00:39:00.003-05:00

The filing cabinets in my office are filled with photos of children I have met on my many journalism assignments around the world. But if you look closely, you will notice one boy has clearly captured my heart above all of the rest. His name is Hadji. I first met him in Slovene Village on a chilly November night in 2002. His blond Shirley Temple curls and freckled face stood out in Liz’s singing class even though he was so small that he could barely see over the desk.

In 2005 Hadji and I were reunited. Then, he was still living with his family in Slovene Village. I cannot explain why I am so attached to Hadji. Perhaps his angelic face reminds me that war often strips all innocence from children. His tough boy attitude three years ago told me life in Slovene Village had clearly robbed him of this innocence. I remember sobbing as I left Slovene for the last time that summer; partially because my heart ached for him to somehow have a better life but also because I never thought I would see him again.

I should know by now that “never” doesn’t always mean never. Burim, Liz’s Kosovo director, knows I have a special attachment to Hadji. Liz knew Hadji’s family had moved out of Slovene. Before I arrived, Burim made it his mission to find Hadji so I could see my special little boy again. As fate would have it, Hadji’s mother now works at the school where the Muscatine and Kosovo choirs rehearse. On Monday I saw Hadji for the first time since our arrival here.

Growing Up Fast
Hadji ran as fast as he could up the school’s path as soon as he saw me and jumped in my arms. Jon Fasanelli-Cawelti sketched the reunion while Aimee Wedeking captured the moment with my camera. Hadji is much taller now, but his blond hair and signature freckles remain. With the help of a translator, I learned Hadji is now 11. He is in fourth grade and he loves to play soccer. More importantly, he and his family no longer live in Slovene Village. They live in a house in town that is owned by an uncle.

I wasn’t expecting to see Hadji until late Monday afternoon, so I had already made plans for lunch. But as soon as his mother saw me at the school, she went home and brought Hadji to see me. When I mentioned that I needed to go to lunch and would return to see Hadji later in the afternoon, his mother said I could take him with me. This will come as a surprise to those who know me well, but I didn’t hesitate. I immediately took him with me to Oita, one of our group’s favorite places to eat here in Gjakove.

Hadji and I joined a large group of adults and youth from our group under Oita’s outdoor awning. It wasn’t until I got to the restaurant that I realized no one would be able to interpret for me. Together we figured out through a bit of creative mime that Hadji wanted a cheese pizza and coke for lunch. Hadji passed the time drawing in my notebook with a pen donated by Jon. I couldn’t stop smiling.

Hadji held my hand as we walked back to the school. Keith Porter met us at the school with the bag full of toys I had brought for Hadji. My bag of gifts included a framed photo for Hadji’s family. It is the photo Keith took of me holding Hadji in 2005. In that photo, Hadji is holding the photo I took of him the night I fell in love with him in 2002.

Before I could even ask Hadji’s mother found a chair, sat us down, and handed Hadji the newest framed photo. Keith graciously repeated his photographic magic. It will be the next framed photo in my office.

Goodbye Tears
Today (Friday) was my last chance to see Hadji. He came back to the school to get his big green eyes checked by Dr. Korpi. They are a perfect 20/20. He and I then made each other friendship bracelets and he drew me a colorful picture of his neighborhood. To him it is probably just another drawing. To me, it is a masterpiece. Close to the end of our time together, Hadji and I walked to a nearby store. I let him pick out a treat. He picked a “Pop-Kek,” the local equivalent of a Ding-Dong. He then led me to the toy section. Like a proud mother, I let him pick out something. He chose a fire truck set complete with firemen and trees. He was so proud carrying the bag back to the school to show his mother.

I knew saying goodbye would be hard. I had been dreading it from the moment I saw him today. His mother has already asked me to take him home with me, just as she did in 2005 and in 2002. It’s not practical. I know it and she knows it too.

I told Hadji to stay in school and to learn English. Then I sat quietly with him for about 5 minutes before the van came to take me to where I am staying. Hadji gave me a huge hug and told me “thanks” in English. I told him I loved him and that I would miss him. There were tears in both of our eyes as we looked at each other one last time.

I cried silently all the way back to the house. As soon as I walked in I got a call from one of Liz’s volunteers. She was with Hadji and he was sobbing. He wanted to see again. I am crying as I finish this article. I feel so badly that he is upset and yet I feel a tremendous sense of pride all at the same time. His tears tell me I have made a difference in his life. It may be years before he realizes what a difference he has made in mine. After all, Hadji will always be my special little boy.

Until next time...Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Photos of Hadji (Kristin's Little Boy)

2008-07-27T00:29:00.004-05:00

Yll Marina Concert Photos -July 23

2008-07-25T01:29:00.008-05:00

The Muscatine and Kosovar choirs performed jointly at the Yll Marina School in Gjakove on Wednesday, July 23. The lighting was poor, but the singing was superb (as always). Here are a few photos from the concert.

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Slovene Village Photos - July 22

2008-07-24T12:00:00.016-05:00

Singing with Liz

Health Bus Due to circumstances beyond our control, we could not hold our health and eye clinics today in one of Slovene's homes. So our medical/eye team turned the bus that transports us to and from the camp into a mini-medical bus. Remember, everything in Kosovo has a simple solution!

Art with Jon In 2005, Slovene's recreation building was still open. It has since been boarded up. This didn't stop Jon from holding art class in the large open field adjacent to Slovene. No one seemed to mind the large ant mounds as they colored. Jon told me later this was one of the best class locations he's ever had.

Fun and Games Tie-Dye Newborn This Slovene girl brought her newest sibling to health clinic. It wasn't long before Karen Hartman, Keith, and I were clamoring for a photo with this cutie! And for the record, this is the second Slovene baby I have held that did NOT cry (babies always seem to cry when I hold them). What Can I say....Slovene Just Warms My Heart ----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Muscatine Participant Reactions (Continued)

2008-07-24T11:57:00.001-05:00

Here are some additional youth reactions, along with a few adult thoughts, to the Kosovo trip thus far. I think you will agree the trip is having a tremendous impact on our entire American delegation.

“As much as I was looking forward this trip, I also had my doubts. But from the moment I stepped off that plane and met the welcomes from old friends and new, I knew this would be a very fun couple of weeks. I know that some people don’t understand why we have friends in our lives. Some even think that they are just there to stand beside us. Yet I know that they are there for an even bigger purpose. Friends are there to give you a helping hand, comfort you when you are down, and not only stand beside you, but catch you when you fall. Here I have felt the strength of that bond called friendship. I felt that friendship when I played Frisbee and jump rope with the little boy from Slovene. I know I will never forget the look he gave me when we started playing. So even when I am back in Muscatine, I will never forget the help people here have given me, whether they have been old friends or new people that I now call my friends. And even though an ocean separates us, that will not stop me from keeping the friends I have made here.”----Marina Calzaretta

“My trip to Kosovo this year is really something to remember. The people are very kind and giving. When we were at one of the camps, there was a boy making a friendship bracelet. He messed it up and then decided to make a new one, so he gave it to me. He said, ‘Are you going to put it on?’ I said I was going to save it. The bracelet is special to me and I think it was very kind of him to give it to me even though he didn’t have to.” ----Madeline Hartman

“Words cannot express what I have experienced the last 9 days here in Gjakove. The children that we work with in the schools are eager to learn, and thrive on the attention they receive. Probably the most heartfelt moments come from Slovene Village. It’s hard to believe the conditions these families are left to live in, and yet they are full of love. Funny how we come to give to others and ironically we will come home with so much more.” ----Aimee Wedeking

“Lying in bed at 4 a.m. last Thursday, I caught a whiff of burning garbage for the first time since our arrival Monday afternoon. This is actually a small sign of progress in Gjakove. That smell was a near constant companion on my previous trips here; prevalent enough to cause breathing problems for some of our participants days and weeks after our return to Muscatine.” ----Keith Porter

Until next time...Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Muscatine Youth Reactions

2008-07-24T11:55:00.003-05:00

The youth participants on this trip are staying with host families scattered across Gjakove. When they are not busy rehearsing with their Kosovar counterparts or leading classes and activities we’ve planned for local school youth, they are so busy having a good time with their hosts that it is difficult for them to find time to put their impressions of the trip on paper. I’ve enlisted the help of Taylor Wettach to help capture reactions from our youth. I’ve transcribed just a sample of thoughts below.

“Kosovo is very interesting the second time around. The countryside looks about the same,except far more fields with lush produce and a swimming park outside of Gjakove. The city, however, is very different. There are more cars on the street than I remember and I have only seen three horse-drawn carts. City life is booming and everyway I look there is a new, chic boutique. The entertainment industry is catching up quickly; no one is listening to N’SYNC anymore. There is still, however, no movie theatre and I am anxious to know if they will ever get one.” ----Michaella Calzaretta

“This my first trip to Kosovo, so it has been a real eye opener. I have really enjoyed going into the schools. The kids’ faces light up when we get there. It’s amazing to learn about their culture and experience their ways of life. Our music and time with the kids seems to be making a difference.” ----Kelli Hinrichs

“Coming back to Kosovo for the second time was pretty intense. It’s great to see how people who live in a country with no air conditioning or Wal-Mart can still enjoy life. I love meeting new people here, and do so everyday. Even walking down the streets, complete strangers will come and shake your hand, offering words of wisdom. These words range from, ‘Hello, how are you,’ to ‘Do you know Bill Clinton.” All in all, it seems like I couldn’t spend enough time here.” ----Nick Korpi

“It’s really fun and they have a lot of flowers here. We go shopping almost everyday. The stores here are cool. There are a lot of bees here and they’re everywhere! The birds here fly in ginormous flocks, some over 50, I think. I’ve been switching the house that I sleep at every night so far. There are a lot of dogs here wandering around, but you don’t see a lot of cats. I like the juice here, it tastes like candy.” ----Allison Hartman

Until next time….. Kristin McHugh-Johnston

ZR School Photos - July 21

2008-07-24T11:18:00.019-05:00

Song Class
Michaela leads the singing classes with help from other youth members.

Eye Clinic
Dr. Pete, with assistance from Rayellen Phillips, continue the eye clinic

Health Clinic
Mike Hartman, Jo Drahos, and Carolyn Hines continue their health exams.

English Class
Karen Hartman's English class

Friendship Bracelets
Friendship bracelet class are among our most popular. It is amazing how a few pieces of embroidery floss can bring smiles to faces....young and old alike.

Portraits with Anne
Anne Olson is doing her best to document as many of the children we assist as possible through formal portraits, some complete with hats or scarves.

Nature Prints
Karen and Tamara Morgan helped students create "nature prints." The project is designed to show students how traditional camera film is developed.

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Reading and Tie Dying

2008-07-23T10:37:00.002-05:00

Two new videos are now available.

Aimee Wedeking is leading reading groups for the Kosovar volunteers interested in improving their English skills: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U4M4eOjorOs

Several people from our group led a boisterous tie dying session at the Slovene Village camp: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tw4pXdTHoGM

--Keith Porter

Gjakove Rotary Meeting Photos and Video

2008-07-22T09:09:00.006-05:00

On Monday, July 21, the Muscatine and Kosovar youth performed for members of the Gjakove Rotary Club. Since 2005, 5 youth from Gjakove have studied at Muscatine High School as Rotary scholars and two more are expected to arrive in Muscatine in August for the 2008-2009 school year. Muscatine participant Keith Porter is a Rotary member and presented the Gjakove group with a banner from the Muscatine Rotary. He was presented a banner from the Gjakove Rotary in return. Liz Shropshire was also presented a banner as a symbol of thanks for the help she has provided to Gjakove's youth through her program.

Here are some photos and pictures I took with my camera during the meeting (in a dimly lit, sweltering hot room nonetheless).

Video Presentation of Banner to Keith

Performance of "La Bamba"

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Pristina Photos - June 19

2008-07-22T01:39:00.001-05:00

The Muscatine and Kosovar groups spent part of Saturday in Pristina, Kosovo's capital. We visited a museum (which didn't allow many photo opportunities). We also visited the "Newborn" statue near the center of town. One section of the main thoroughfare in Pristina was renamed "Bill Clinton" Boulevard not long after the war. Kosovars view the United States and President Clinton as their liberators. The huge banner of President Clinton that was hanging in Pristina when Keith and I first visited in 2002 is still there, although it is starting to fade and show wear.

Newborn Photos Newborn was unveiled weeks after Kosovo declared its independence on February 17. Thousands of people have added their names to the statue since it was unveiled. Burim was our leader during our visit to Pristina....and that was no easy task as more than 50 people snaked through the streets of Pristina. I gave him my umbrella so he could use it as a "landmark" as we straggled behind.

Museum and Miscellaneous Photos

This is a view I took from the van of Kosovo's main power plant on the outskirts of Pristina. The plant continues to struggle to keep the lights on throughout Kosovo, although the power situation here is considerably better than it was in 2005 and 2002. ----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Art and Music in Kosovo

2008-07-21T07:05:00.003-05:00

Two new videos today:

Jon and his art classes:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-XvYeYPmYE

Lori and the children sing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kO959OvWDTg

--Keith Porter

Baseball, Idol, and Dessert

2008-07-21T05:23:00.003-05:00

We have started to settle into our daily routines. The American and Kosovar participants remain divided into two groups so we can assist as many people as possible. Last Thursday, the medical team, including Mike Hartman, Jo Drahos, Carolyn Hines, Dr. Pete Korpi, and Rayellen Phillips, returned to Slovene Village. Carolyn went door-to-door checking on Slovene's adults while the rest set up a makeshift "Health and Eye Town" in one of the camps few shaded areas.

Tamara and Karen Morgan and Marina Calzaretta helped entertain Slovene youth with Frisbees and jump ropes and Michaela taught several impromptu hand clapping games. Joe Porter, Sam Baker, Taylor Wettach, Gabby and Allison Hartman led a spirited game of wiffle ball. The Slovene youth don't seem to understand the concept of running the bases, but the squeals of joy as they hit the ball are far more important to everyone in our group than game fundamentals.

Kosovar Idol
I don't want you to get the impression that this trip is all fun and games for our youth participants. They are leading classes and practicing nearly every day with their Kosovar counterparts for a series of concerts this week. On Friday night, the youth held a talent show for the American adults (see earlier posts for photo details). The talent show was a mix of song, dance, skits, and a few unusual talents such as Jake Drahos' ability to solve a Rubik's Cube in no time flat. The evening ended in a frenzy of traditional Albanian dance.

Dessert Anyone?
One of the project assignments for the Iowa adults on this trip was to host dessert for the Kosovar families housing our youth participants. Originally we had planned to have each adult house make a full dinner, but this was changed at the last minute because the kitchens in each house are not equal. The thought of cooking dinner scares me on most days, let alone here in Kosovo. Dessert is more my style. How difficult could it be?

My housemates (Keith Porter, Aimee Wedeking, and Ric Smith) decided to serve American style sundaes (complete with fudge sauce and sprinkles) along with cookies and cake. The grocery stores here are full of Western pre-packed products, but cake mixes are surprisingly absent from the shelves. So Aimee and I decided to purchase a pre-packaged cake from a small store near our house for our Saturday "dessert night."

The cake on the package looked wonderful. But we discovered just minutes before our guests arrived that the cake inside did not look as advertised (see photos in earlier post for more detail). I must have watched too many Martha Stewart shows because suddenly I transformed into my "domestic" hostess persona. Everything here in Kosovo has a simple solution (or so I kept telling myself). My solution was to scrape the frosting off of the cake's plastic covering, spread it over the top of the cake, and spoon a generous portion of decorative sprinkles on top of the newly spread icing. Problem solved. Thankfully the cake Aimee and I purchased for our Sunday "dessert night" was perfect right out of the box.

Our youth host families returned the favor on Sunday by hosting the American adults for lunch. It is hard to imagine but our trip is nearly half over already and many of us feel as if we have just arrived.

Until next time...Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Gjakove Catholic Church Performance Photos - July 19 - Aimee Wedeking

2008-07-20T15:31:00.004-05:00

Members of the Muscatine and Kosovar choirs performed at the Saturday evening the Gjakove Catholic Church.

Dessert Night at The Vesa House

2008-07-20T15:00:00.003-05:00

One of the projects for the Iowa adults on this trip is to host the families of Liz's Kosovar volunteers for an evening dessert. Originally our plan was to host dinner, but it was changed at the last minute since the kitchen facilities at each of the adult houses are not equal. Stores here are full of Western foods, but cake mixes are strangely absent. So the members of my house (Keith, Ric, and Aimee) decided to fix American style sundaes (complete with fudge sauce and sprinkles) with cookies and cake.

We had a wonderful evening visiting with Kaltrina (Muscatine High School graduate and MCC student) and Blini's parents and everyone loved our dessert offerings. But we had a few humorous moments.

This is what the cake Aimee and I bought at the little store down the street from our house is supposed to look like when it comes out of the box.....

.....this is how it really looked coming out of the box.

Clearly I have watched too many Martha Stewart episodes because I quickly transformed into "domestic" hostess mode. Every problem here in Kosovo has a simple solution, right? My solution was to spread the frosting that ended up in the cake top.....

.....and to put sprinkles intended for the ice cream on top of the cake.

The cake tasted great....and looked good too (if I don't say so myself). Here Ric and I are serving ice cream and cake.

Here Keith is presenting Blini and Kaltrina's parents with a "Muscatine" towel.

The American youth staying with Blini and Kaltrina also joined us for the evening. Here's a group shot.

Thanks to everyone for a great night of conversation and fun.

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston (with photo assistance from Aimee Wedeking).

Gjakova Catholic Church

2008-07-20T12:43:00.002-05:00

The joint group of Americans and Kosovars sang at the Gjakova Catholic Church Saturday night. I have posted three videos of the songs they sang after mass.

Lord, Listen to Your Children Singing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MYUIC-vUKoI

On That Holy Mountain http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xR7YRpdn-ao

O Qbote Bukur http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LoeZiKhURI4

--Keith Porter

Talent Show Photos - July 18 - Keith Porter

2008-07-20T05:37:00.006-05:00

The Muscatine and Kosovar youth held a talent show for adults and parents at the Yll Marina School on Friday night. Here are some photos Keith Porter took during the performances.

Two New Videos

2008-07-18T17:02:00.002-05:00

One video is an inside look at the health screenings run by Jo Drahos, Mike Hartman, and Carolyn Hines:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tEYW8Mq7_dM

The other shows school activities run by a number of our participants:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7kzEUfgL8A

--Keith Porter

Yll Marina School Arts and Crafts - July 18

2008-07-18T11:22:00.007-05:00

Jon was unable to be in two places at once today, so Dan, Margie, Halie, and Abbie Gray joined me and Nick Korpi, Diana Baker, Leigha Phillips, and Rachel Potter to lead the "arts and crafts" class today. Yea, it takes all of us to fill Jon's shoes. :)

Friendship Bracelets

Art Class
Aimee Wedeking was teaching English in an adjacent classroom. Fruits and animals were among the words the students wanted to learn. The fruits inspired several students to color in the fruits they drew in English class. There were plenty of other fun artistic efforts too.

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Old Town Gjakove Tour Photos - July 17 - Aimee Wedeking

2008-07-18T11:14:00.004-05:00

Narrow Streets

"Zig-Zag" Bridge

Cradle Painting

Mosque Restoration

ZR School Photos - July 17 - Aimee Wedeking

2008-07-18T11:12:00.001-05:00

Evening Rehearsal Photos - July 17 - Aimee Wedeking

2008-07-18T11:11:00.002-05:00

Prizren Photos - Aimee Wedeking

2008-07-18T10:39:00.001-05:00

Video and Radio updates

2008-07-17T15:56:00.003-05:00

Two new videos from the trip are now avialable.

This one explains the eye clinics run by Dr. Pete Korpi:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JBGv5-29yaE

And this one looks at some of the fun from Slovene Village:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmMORupvxKc

AND... there will be a special report from the Muscatine Kosovo Project on KWPC 860AM at 7am on Friday.

--Keith Porter

Rehearsal Photos - July 15, 2008

2008-07-17T09:09:00.006-05:00

Members of the Muscatine and Kosovo choirs are rehearsing nearly every evening during the trip at a local school.

The choirs are expecting to perform at numerous locations in the coming days. Here are some photos I took during the first night of rehearsal. Here is a short video taken with my digital camera.

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Slovene Village Photos - July 17, 2008

2008-07-17T09:04:00.009-05:00

The Muscatine and Kosovo groups split up again this morning in an attempt to reach as many people as possible. Some went to the "ZR School." Others returned to Slovene Village for more singing and playtime. Mike Hartman, Jo Drahos, Carolyn Hines, Rayellen Phillips, and Dr. Pete Korpi started the first round of medical and eye checks for Slovene youth.

Here are some images from this morning's trip.

Faces and Friends

Fun and Games

Medical Checks

Eye Exams

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Photos from Prizren - July 16, 2008

2008-07-17T08:55:00.006-05:00

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Visit to Prizren

2008-07-17T08:52:00.002-05:00

I travel around the world for my job at the Stanley Foundation. So you would think by now I would be used to the disorientation that sometimes comes with traveling nearly half-way around the world in little more than 24 hours. I’m not. I am always amazed at how quickly an airplane (even with a long layover) can take me to a new culture. And I continue to be amazed at how difficult it is to adjust to the time difference that goes along with global travel (we are seven hours ahead of Muscatine time).

In 2005, the Muscatine Kosovo group spent the night in London on the way to Pristina. As you know by now, we didn’t have to spend an entire night waiting to catch a flight to Kosovo. The good news is that eliminating the overnight layover helped us stretch our budget. What we saved in Euros has been erased by jet lag.

Another Familiar Place
Liz travels back and forth between the US and Kosovo often enough to understand how jet lag can be difficult to deal with for the first couple of days after arrival. I suspect this is why she scheduled our group to visit the beautiful southern Kosovo city of Prizren on Wednesday afternoon.

One of our 2005 guides told us Prizren was once the capital of Kosovo and was part of the Roman Empire. It doesn’t take long to realize some of Prizren’s prized buildings are more than 1000 years old.

This was my third visit to Prizren. Keith and I spent an afternoon here in 2002 and the group spent a day here in 2005. We started our visit at a museum run by the Albanian League of Prizren. Our adults were fascinated with what they learned, but as you can imagine, the youth from Muscatine and Kosovo were not as enthralled with the museum.

I could almost see the signs of relief on the youth’s faces when we gave them the option of visiting the city’s historic Turkish bathhouse or Prizren’s famed fortress. A handful including Ric Smith, Kelli Hindrichs, and Diana Baker toured the Turkish bath. The rest visited the ancient fortress.

The fortress overlooks the entire city. Visitors must endure a mile-long steep, winding, and narrow road to reach the fortress’ crumbling entrance. I remember questioning my sanity when I made the walk in 2005. Today I was questioning why I didn’t learn my lesson last time. I (and many of the adults in the group) stopped frequently to catch my breath. In the end, I am glad I made the hike. The view of Prizren from the fortress is still breathtaking (literally!).

A First Hand View of Destruction
Large construction cranes and newly constructed apartment buildings are the most obvious signs of Prizren’s expanding prosperity. But the path to the fortress has not changed for the better since our 2005 trip. The area just below the fortress was a Serb enclave up until ethnic violence in March 2004 destroyed the hillside neighborhood. Then, riots swept across Kosovo after a group of young Albanian boys drowned in the river that divides the flashpoint town of Mitrovica (in northern Kosovo).

The burned-out shells of former houses and shops are frozen in time, save for some added weeds. For our new travelers, this former Serb enclave was their first glimpse of the widespread destruction Keith and I saw throughout Kosovo in 2002.

I must admit I was stunned the former Serb enclave had not been rebuilt. The international community demanded Kosovo’s majority ethnic Albanians guarantee the rights of the several thousand Serbians that remained here after the 1999 war, as well as those of the other minorities as a condition of independence. KFOR billboards plastered throughout major cities and Kosovo roads urge Kosovars to “Be Tolerant.” I do believe Kosovo has come a long way since the 1999 conflict. But the ruins of Prizren’s Serb enclave are a vivid reminder that the deep seated mistrust between the Kosovars and Serbs will likely take a very long time to heal.

Until next time...Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Novosell School Photos - Wednesday, July 16

2008-07-17T01:07:00.008-05:00

On Wednesday morning, the adults and youth divided into two groups and worked at two different schools. I was at the Novosell, a Catholic school in a Catholic settlement several miles outside Gjakove proper. Here are some photo highlights.

Art with Jon

Song Class with Lori

English Class with Aimee

----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Return to Slovene Village

2008-07-16T05:45:00.002-05:00

We started the day in the place where this great exchange first began on a blustery night in November 2002: Slovene Village.

Slovene Village, located on the outskirts of Gjakove, is a displacement camp. Built by the Slovenian government immediately after the 1999 war, Slovene Village was intended to be temporary housing for people who lost everything. Eight years after the fighting ended, roughly two-dozen families still live in Slovene.

Keith Porter and I first visited Slovene Village in 2002. Residents live in white-rectangular buildings that are no larger than an American semi-trailer truck. At one time there were shared kitchens and outhouses and a large recreation center where Liz held weekly classes for Slovene’s youth.

Slovene was clearly dilapidated age when the group visited in 2005. Liz had warned me ahead of this trip that Slovene was rapidly “falling apart.” I thought I was prepared for the worst, but my audible gasp as we turned into the drive told me and my fellow van passengers that conditions were far worse than I had feared.

Music Among the Rubble
Slovene’s entrance gate and sign are no longer there. The large pile of trash and rubble at the entrance was, unfortunately, familiar. But the overflowing gray dumpster Keith and I saw in 2002 and the group witnessed in 2005 was strangely missing. The outhouses long ago lost their doors, windows, and floors (it is hard to imagine they are still in use). Fire has clearly damaged some houses. Concrete slabs are all that is left of others. The recreation center where we shared so many memories in 2002 and 2005 is now boarded up.

But my despair at the living conditions was quickly replaced with smiles. The camp’s youth greeted us with cheers of joy as our vans pulled to a stop. They were excited to see us, but even more excited to see Liz. It has been several months since she has visited Slovene Village, although her youth volunteers continue to hold weekly classes in the camp when the weather is good.

Weather is crucial during a Slovene visit because the recreation center is now closed. A rocky, weed-infested field adjacent to the camp now serves as the music “classroom.” No one seemed bothered by the less than perfect classroom setting. The Shropshire volunteers and our Muscatine youth launched into a great rendition of “Skip to My Lou” and the Slovene Village youth quickly joined in with such enthusiasm it was sometimes hard for the adults to contain their laughter. In short order, the Slovene youth were signing old favorites including the interactive “Popcorn” song.

If I didn’t already know I was in Kosovo, I could be forgiven for mistaking the scene for the Wesley United Methodist Church music camp. It only continues to prove what I have said before: music and laughter are universal, no matter what language.

Future is Unknown
Slovene Village’s future is more uncertain than ever. Since Keith and I first visited in 2002 there have been numerous reports that the camp would close “soon.” Liz reports the electricity was cut off to the camp for several months after our 2005 visit in an attempt to force residents to leave. Burim, Liz’s Kosovor program coordinator, told me today that residents received a letter in recent days telling them the camp would close in two weeks. Residents have formally appealed to local government officials for more time to find alternative housing. It is unclear whether those appeals will be taken seriously or fall on deaf ears. We may learn more in the coming days. The group is schedule to return to Slovene a few more times before the end of our trip.

Rapid Weather Change
Stifling heat greeted our group as we landed in Pristina yesterday and nightfall did very little to ease the sticky conditions in Gjakove. Our group arrived at Slovene Village armed with sunscreen and extra bottles of water to help ward off another day of hot sun. But within an hour of our arrival a sudden and unexpected thunderstorm began pouring buckets of rain on the anointed classroom field. As the rain pelted the van windows as we pulled away from Slovene Village, I couldn’t help but wonder if the rain was actually tears for the residents who seemingly have nowhere else to go.

Until next time...Kristin McHugh-Johnston

New Videos Available

2008-07-15T17:18:00.002-05:00

I have posted two videos from the trip thus far. The first covers our travels from Muscatine to Gjakova: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9BqSZhOBB7g

And the other is a video a made for blogger Charlie Brown about Slovene Village: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIUBuN4iNQ4

Slovene Village is a camp for people still displaced by the 1999 war. It is one of several places where Liz Shropshire's youth volunteers run music activities.

-Keith Porter

Return to Slovene Village - Day One Photos

2008-07-15T15:46:00.006-05:00

Our first stop after a full night's sleep was Slovene Village, a dilapidated camp for people displaced by the c1999 war. Those who still live there have nowhere else to go. Here are a few photos I took in the hour we were there (we were driven away by a sudden and unexpected thunderstorm). My story is forthcoming....after I get some sleep. ----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Journey to Kosovo Photos - by Aimee Wedeking

2008-07-15T15:43:00.004-05:00

Gjakove or Bust Photos

2008-07-15T15:26:00.005-05:00

Here are a few photos I took after our arrival at the airport and during our bus journey to Gjakove. There are plenty of people on the trip with cameras (and I am sure they are taking much better photos than I am). I hope to be able to find a way to share photos from others in the coming days. Until then, you will have mine as an appetizer. ----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Kosovo, We Have Landed

2008-07-15T15:18:00.003-05:00

I knew we had reached Kosovo the second I stepped off the plane. Why? There was a large new sign that greeted us at the door of the airport terminal that reads, “Welcome to the Republic of Kosovo.” This is quite a change from the last time the Muscatine Kosovo Project landed in Pristina in 2005. Then, the ripe smell from burning garbage and pollution belching from the smokestacks of Kosovo’s decrepit and lone power plant, was my first clue that our long journey to Kosovo was over. Surprisingly, at least to me, the smell was gone.

The “Welcome to the Republic of Kosovo” sign is more than just an airport greeting. It is an indication of just how far this former territory of Yugoslavia has come. Kosovo formally declared its independence from Serbia on February 17, 2008. The United States and nearly 40 other nations around the world have formally recognized Kosovo’s sovereignty. But Russia, Serbia’s ally, refuses to recognize Kosovo’s independence and has blocked all United Nations efforts to give Kosovo what most residents here believe they are entitled to: their own country. With or without Russia and the United Nations, Kosovo is moving forward. Kosovo’s new flag waved in the wind of the airport tower along with those from the United States, the European Union, and Albania.

Gjakove Bound
Once we finally cleared the crush of passengers that had rushed from the plane to passport control and started the long process of collecting our luggage. Thankfully, every last piece of luggage arrived. There are still luggage carts at the airport which made our exit much easier. As we snaked our way outside, we were crushed by the joyful claps, hollers, and tears of Liz Shropshire and a handful of her volunteers who had arrived to greet us. I cried tears of joy as I hugged Liz, just as I had three years ago when we arrived.

Gjakove or Bust…Again!
Liz too had learned a few lessons from our last trip. This time she aided us in renting a full size passenger bus to hold us and all of our stuff. Well almost all of our bags. We still had to load half a dozen or so bags into the Shropshire Music Foundation’s aging blue Volkswagon van.

The trip to Gjakove is usually about 90 minutes. It came as no surprise to those of us who visited in 2005 that the trip took longer. The big bus was great, with one exception. The air conditioning was not working, transforming the vehicle into an oven. The driver stopped 40 minutes into the ride in a vain attempt to fix the air. But as with so many of our experiences here in 2005, any problem here has a quick, if not simple, solution. Everyone purchased a cold drink at a roadside stand and we were back on the road in no time.

Tonight we settled into the place we will call home for the next 14 days. All of the adults (and the two youngest Hartman girls) are living in four separate houses that we’ve rented for this trip. All remaining youths are staying in pairs with host families. Many of the host families include children who have visited and/or studied in Muscatine since our exchange began in 2004.

The road to Gjakove is always an adventure for me, the for most the real journey is just getting underway!

Until next time…..Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Photos from Vienna Airport Layover

2008-07-15T09:39:00.003-05:00

Here are some photos from our Vienna layover. Some of us spent time on our BlackBerries (guess who?!), some played games and cards, but several slept after our long flight. ----Kristin McHugh-Johnston

We Are On Our Way

2008-07-14T03:54:00.008-05:00

Greetings from Vienna! We are more than half-way to our final destination, Gjakove, Kosovo. Here's my latest update. The long journey to Kosovo started at 8:30AM on Sunday, July 13 in the Wesley United Methodist Church parking lot.

Getting to the meeting point was the easy part. Making sure we had a way to get all passengers (37 total) AND luggage (61 stuffed suitcases and 70-plus carry-on bags) was no easy task. Our 2005 trip yielded many valuable lessons; one of which was to enlist a pick-up truck just to haul luggage. Thanks to trip participant Anne Olson’s husband, we had a truck, packed to the gills, and a driver to help get our stuffed bags to Chicago. The Wesley bus and a large passenger van hauled the rest of the luggage and group members.

Vienna Calling

We arrived at O’Hare International Airport more than an hour ahead of our preset time of 2:00PM. Yes, I take all of the blame for wanting to make sure we had plenty of time to reach Chicago. Unloading the luggage and hauling all of it into the airport took some finesse. But our group managed to get everything inside. We waited roughly 15 minutes for Austrian Air’s ticket counter to open and then we started the check-in process. Check-in was relatively painless. We are flying to Vienna and then taking a second flight to Kosovo’s capital Pristina. Everyone cleared security screening with no major problems. Whew!

Too Good To Be True

We waited about an hour in the gate area before boarding our plane. Things had gone SO smoothly up to this point that I was beginning to wonder when the other shoe would drop. It dropped as soon as we were getting ready to board the plane. Half-a-dozen families with multiple small children were booked on our flight. I don’t think the screaming ever stopped. One child was particularly vocal for most of the 8 hour flight, prompting participant Keith Porter to send the following Twitter update upon arrival in Vienna, “the screaming baby express has landed in Vienna.” The flight to Vienna, outside of the screaming babies, was uneventful. More than half of the participants this year visited Kosovo in 2005, giving the few who have not traveled with this group plenty of resources.

Killing Time at The Airport

We arrived in Vienna just after 8:00AM local time (Vienna is 7 hours ahead of Iowa time). As I write this update, the group has scattered throughout the terminal. Many of the youth are napping in an area near the gate. Others are walking through the maze of duty-free shops. Keith Porter and I are working on our laptops and BlackBerries (big surprise!). We are scheduled to leave Vienna in a few hours. Our flight to Pristina is two hours. Our drive to our final destination, Gjakove, is another 90 minutes or so. Until next time…. Kristin McHugh-Johnston

Our Adventure Begins!

2008-07-12T20:51:00.003-05:00

We are officially on our way to Kosovo. With more than 50 stuffed suitcases (all carefully weighed), and even more carry-on bags, we have made it all the way to the DeKalb Oasis for a food stop. We are due to arrive at O'Hare by 2pm. Our flight leaves at 4:30pm. The weather is good, so hopefully no delays. Here are a few photos Deb Porter took last night during our group "packing" night. We are each restricted to two checked bags....weighing no more than 50 pounds. Hence the scale! Thanks Deb for the photos. Don't forget to check the twitter updates on the right-hand side of this blog page and on the Muscatine Kosovo Project Web site for more timely updates. Until next time....

My Voice, Our Voice

2008-05-04T19:52:00.002-05:00

In April 2008, group members were asked to write a paragraph titled, "My Voice, Our Voice" as part of the trip preparation. Here are some of the early submissions.

My Voice, Our Voice

2008-05-04T19:28:00.014-05:00

As a journalist, it is my job to give a voice to those who may not otherwise have one in our 24/7 world. When Keith Porter and I first visited Gjakove in 2002, our goal was to give child survivors of the Kosovo conflict a voice. It wasn’t hard to capture the angelic voices of the Slovene Village participants in the Shropshire Music Foundation’s Kosovo Children’s Music Initiative. Their voices were loud and clear and carried well beyond the cold, white walls of Slovene’s recreation center. This collective voice was full of hope, not despair. More importantly this collective voice inspired my words, Keith’s words, and ultimately a youth choir half a world away. Six years, three cross-Atlantic summer trips, and six exchange students later, our voices are intertwined in a way that can never be separated. My voice is their voice and their voice is our voice. And what a wonderful voice it is!

---Kristin McHugh-Johnston

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Music is a magical art form. It exists in its purest form only at the moment it is created and heard. Even more miraculous is the creation of music with only the human voice. Using the human voice to create music is universal. People across the globe and throughout history have done this. When we join with others to sing, it connects us. We share a magical moment. We create something that in its entirety is greater than the sum of the parts. We produce the sound and listen to our voices coming back to us. The opportunity to raise one's voice in song and join with others is a transcendental experience. It allows us to catch a glimpse of the truly divine.

---Jo Drahos

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I was born in… I have lived in… I have traveled to… I am related to… I am married to… I talk to… I laugh with… I sing about… I am very small and a very big part of the world. I was born everywhere. I have lived everywhere. I have traveled to everywhere. I am related to everyone. I am married to everyone. I talk to everyone. I laugh with everyone. I sing about everything and everyone and everyplace. We are the world.

---Lori Carroll

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Traveling with the Muscatine Children's Choir to Kosovo in 2005 was a real joy. As an accompanist, I've been involved with the organization and with Wesley Church's Music Camp for several years. My duties with the group tour included acting as photographer. As such, I was privy to interaction between the Muscatine choir and the Shropshire Music Foundation volunteers and pupils. Children are children no matter their location, and music can be a very real connection; singing together and living together for two weeks. We Americans were subjected to much lower standards of living, because of the political situation in the war-torn country of Kosovo. We found that the pupils were eager for classroom study, even though it was their summer vacation. Living through war and oppression; not having opportunities of study in many ways seemed to evoke a desire that we don't find with many American children who take education for granted. The group exchanges to and from Kosovo have strengthened the ties between both groups. Many of the 2005 travelers are eager to return to Kosovo and work our Music Mission there once again. We thank the community for supporting us. Watch for new photographs and new tales of our experiences this summer. As a result of our group exchanges, Ereza, Bujeta, Kaltrina, Nita, Lum and Ali have journeyed to Muscatine to study in our local high school and community college, have lived with local families and have participated with the Muscatine Children's and Youth Choirs. We've been blessed by this new aspect of exchange.

---Anne Olson

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The talents and skills God has given us, are our voice - how we use these talents to help others is our song. And we want our song to be one of compassion and love for others. My voice is soft on it's own - you would have to be real quiet and really paying attention to hear it - but when blended together with other voices the message is easier to hear and can be heard by more people from a greater distance. Putting these voices together can form a choir that is not only beautiful to behold, but hopefully will inspire others to use their voices as well, as well as bringing comfort to those we are trying to help.

---Pete Korpi

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Of all the rewarding things about my involvement with the Kosovo group (and there are many), the thing I quietly enjoy the most is seeing our Kosovars performing and participating in other community groups. When I first saw Erza and Bujeta sing with the Muscatine High School choir, it hit me that our efforts were having ripple effects right here in Muscatine. I watched Nita and Kaltrina sing in an awesome community-wide Messiah performance last year. Afterwards, Nita said I was smiling through the whole show. Why? Because I am still amazed that they are here, singing in my church, defying war, making peace, proving the sensible world wrong. Ali reading to 2nd and 3rd graders at local schools. Lum wearing his MHS soccer jacket. It all makes my head spin. I was in the thick of all the group planning and activities, but I still cannot explain how it all happened and continues to unfold. Liz says the most important lesson to learn is that in this world there is no "us and them." There is only "us." And when I see our group, Kosovars and Americans, living that reality, I start to believe "our voice" can make a difference.

----Keith Porter

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My voice standing out in a crowd of people Lost in the chatter of day-to-day talk. One figure standing alone in the woods With no compass or anything to guide him. Yet, as the pitter-patter of rain falls on the rooftops Our voice can be heard for miles around, Lifting high and clear We know that the greatest power in the world That exceeds any mortal weapon Is the power of friendship. For the man alone in the woods Will find a friend to guide him. And my solitary voice in the crowd of people Will be heard. And still our voice lifts high and clear, Guiding all and all who will listen With the power of Friendship.

----Marina Calzaretta

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USA United singing abroad KOSOVO

Keep on singing our voices orating My voice, your voice, mingling in singing makes a joyful noise unto the Lord. I am telling people about the great program we have with the Liz Shropshire Music Foundation to help war-torn Kosovo youth. They are coming to the US telling about the atrocities of the war to their people. Talking brings healing. Action brings change. Voices against hardening of the heart seldom work. Maybe, just maybe, a tiny little word will ignite a spark in someone’s heart to change their way of thinking. Voices, voices, voices……I can’t understand you. You can’t understand me. Who cares? Smiles and hugs are even more important than voices in the air.

----Karen Morgan

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What I can not wait for, going to Kosovo, is to meet new people. What I have learned is that it is beautiful and the people are nice. I have heard they can speak a lot of languages that makes them smart (at least in my opinion). I hope I meet a lot of awesome friends just like my older sister, Halie, did when she was there. I wonder who I am staying with. I know it will be fun so I am happy!

---- ABBIE M. GRAY

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I’m looking forward, with some anxiety, to our return to Kosovo. Not due to the risk of security, but because I fear the fresh idea of freedom that I experienced, with the Kosovars, during our first trip will have begun to fade. Kind of like watching a movie sequel, it just isn’t as good as the original series. My hope is that the citizens of Gjakova will still be happy and friendly, and that the self-indulgence and urgency of our 20th century have not caused a negative effect on their society. Seems like when we help others we sometimes influence them with our “take it for granted” lifestyles. One thing I’m sure of is that the kids and young adults in the Shropshire program will have a head start, in the process, for the future of a free Kosovo.

----Dan Gray

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“Voices” brings to mind children singing, their accents blending to create music that knows no color, race or religion, and tells a story of happy endings. My first experience with the Kosovo project was the year the kids from the Shropshire Foundation traveled to Muscatine. As I watched them perform their concert with the kids from the US, I asked the person standing beside me to choose the Muscatine Youth Choir singers in the group. They couldn’t. And that’s as it should be. Although from entirely different backgrounds, those young singers had more in common than not. And when singing together, they formed bonds of friendship through music that can’t be broken. As they finished the song “We Sing for the Children,” I thought “and this is what this project is all about.” I am looking forward to the trip to Kosovo this summer to experience the hope that seems to be so prevalent in a nation that has experienced so many trials, and discover from them how to learn from the past but always look to the future.

----Margie Gray

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I can’t wait to go back to Kosovo I had a great time there last time. I’m looking forward to seeing all the kids again. It will be fun to help out again too. I am looking forward to singing and meeting new people.

----Halie Gray